Thursday, June 19, 2008

See ya lata bye!

It's back to the land of porcelain toilets for me!

Here's a semi-appropriate and hilarious video that some of us on this trip have gotten a kick out of:

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Last Night in Beijing

It's hard to believe, but tonight is my last night in Beijing. But before I'm done I still have to pack, do a blog entry for class, go to our banquet dinner tonight, and sleep enough so that I make up for staying up all last night to finish a paper that was due this morning. Ahhhhh.

Since I last updated, I visited the Temple of Heaven, haggled for $8 (59 yuan) fake Converse at the Pearl Market, ate at Pizza Hut, had Little Sheep hot pot for the second time, revisited the hutong between Ghost Street and HouHai, went the State Council of Information Office, had dance battles at Propaganda, heard William Farris from Google give a presentation, wrote a paper, gave two in-class presentations, had some quasi-dim sum, and visited some Olympic sites, not necessarily in that order. And I'm sure there's a bunch that I forgot.

Lots of interesting stuff, especially at the SCIO (basically the state's PR/propaganda machine) and the Olympic areas (specifically the International Broadcast Center and the Main Press Center). In terms of the SCIO, it was interesting to see how their spokesperson strategically used the language barrier, which seemed largely manufactured since he spoke to us in English by the end of the info session, to sort of carefully control the flow of information as we asked him questions. Definite highlight of talking with the Olympics spokesperson was when someone asked him what would be the sort of worst case scenario for him in terms of managing the two media centers once everything is in full on Olympic mode, and how would he respond? His answer was power outage, which, while simple, makes perfect sense. And how would he respond? He pointed to the window behind him and said he'd just end it. It sounds kind of morbid writing it, but it was hilarious at the time, I guess mostly because of his tone which I won't even try to replicate here.

And now, of course, for photos.

Outside the Silk Market (not where I bought my fake shoes)

Temple of Heaven



State Council of Information Office press conference room (not to be confused with PRC)

International Broadcast Center (IBC)


Fuwa at IBC!

Cafeteria at IBC

Escalators in the middle of IBC

Inside the Main Press Center (MPC)

800 (I think?) person press conference room in MPC

Thursday, June 12, 2008

The Great Wall, etc.

Oh boy, I feel like I haven't updated in a while, but I don't want to make this too long.

Last weekend, we went to the Great Wall, which was epic. We rode on a bus for about two, maybe two and a half hours to get out to this particular section of the wall. To access the wall itself, we had to ride a gondola (essentially a ski lift) up part of a mountain and then climb what seemed like hundreds of stairs. And then more stairs once we hit the wall. Way too many stairs. But it was worth it, and people were selling popsicles at the top, so that made everything okay.




In terms of more educational outings, a few days ago we visited CCTV's soon-to-be-old headquarters. As a guest speaker (Dean of Tsinghua's School of Journalism and Communications) described to us today, they have more money than they know what to do with, so they're building fancy new offices for themselves. Many say the new building looks like a pair of pants. The tour of the old building was largely uninformative and very short.


As for guest speakers, we heard from Dean Xiguang Li today, along with Yong Wang, a lawyer in Beijing who deals with copyright and has worked with the Motion Picture Association of America. Earlier in the week we had Stan Abrams, another lawyer, who works at a foreign firm in Beijing and specializes in IPR.

And I'm going to stop there for today!

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Blogosphere

Oh yeah! And Blogspot is no longer blocked in China as of yesterday. Wordpress still is, though.

Friday, June 6, 2008

Hallo Priddy Lady! Take a Looka!

Unfortunately, I have no good pictures for this post. Lately our field trips haven't been quite as scenic as they once were. On Thursday, we went over to China Radio International, another state-run media outlet. We got a tour of the building, poked our heads into various departments on the English-language floor, and then had a Q&A session with one of the guys that worked there. It was pretty standard, but especially interesting to hear him respond to questions about censorship.

Today's field trip took us just next door to our hotel, into the Sohu.com headquarters. Sohu is basically like Yahoo! in the states - it's a sort of all-encompassing news, entertainment, search, whatever-other-crap-you-want source. This year, they also happen to be the designer of the Beijing Olympics website. And unlike CRI or CCTV, Sohu's not run by the government. We took a tour of the building and then had a presentation and Q&A, only this time the presenter opted to speak in Chinese, so the whole thing was interpreted by a student we brought along from Tsinghua. By the end, it was all pretty painful to sit through.

Once all that was over, a group of us headed to the Silk Market in two cabs, blasted for about an hour in mid-day heat and traffic. We all were a bit moody upon arrival, but once we got into the market, we were so overwhelmed that we forgot about the cab ride. The market is set up inside a huge building, with 6 or 7 total floors of rows and rows of tiny shops, selling everything from toys to silk gowns. We split up into small groups based on who had cell phones, so my friend Stephanie and I set out to see what there was to see. As we walked up and down the aisles, there was a constant barrage of shopkeepers yelling at us in broken English phrases, employing their perfectly practiced marketing techniques to lure us into their shops. Techniques before and during bargaining include, but are not limited to, the following:

1. Complementing appearances ("Pretty lady!" "Sexy lady!" "Beautiful hairstyle!")
2. Other forms of more subtle flattery (asking if you're shopping for a boyfriend/girlfriend)
3. Assessing what you're wearing and what's in your bags, then pulling out similar items in their shop
4. Trying to take advantage of noobs by starting out at a price that's marked up about 1000%
5. Claiming that their shop will give the "best price"
6. Telling you that you're getting the "Chinese" price
7. Telling you that you're getting a better price for being a student
8. Telling you that you're getting a good price because they like you
9. Telling you that the low price you set is "impossible" and would cause them to lose money (aka guilt-tripping)
10. Building a false sense of confidence by telling you that you're a very good bargainer
11. Playing good cop/bad cop with another shopkeeper
12. In the case of my two friends shopping together (one being fluent in Chinese), using another shopkeeper to block the Chinese-speaking shopper and only dealing with the American

Of course there are many more that I can't think of at the moment. And of course, there are also techniques used by shoppers, as I will outline in the following true story of my haggling.

There are these little cloisonne fish that I have a freakish obsession with, and they're all over Chinatown in Philly (for about 6 or 7 bucks), so I knew they'd be at the Silk Market. But cheaper.


At one point I was walking to the bathroom, and on the way, I spotted the fish at one of the shops. I stopped to take a quick look, and of course the shopkeeper immediately comes over and asks me how many I want and offers me a starting price of 10 yuan (a little over a dollar) each. His fish were small and really crappy, but the price still sounded surprisingly low. I told him I'd come back after I went to the bathroom, which he interpreted as me trying to get him to lower the price while walking away, so he started yelling for me to come back so we could work out a price. I informed him that I really did, in fact, need to go to the bathroom (they just call it the toilet here), and kept on walking.

Once I was done peeing in the hole in the floor, I started looking for another shop with the fish to see if I could find bigger and better quality ones. I stumbled upon a shop after not much searching, and asked the guy for his starting price. Sixty-five yuan. And thus, the first buyer strategy: "What? I can get it from the guy over there for 10!" I probably could have lied here and said the other shopkeeper started at 5 or something, but alas. So then the guy proceeds to tell me that the other shopkeeper's stuff was poor quality (true) and probably made of plastic (false). "No, I felt them," I said. "They're metal, and he started at 10." "Okay, okay," he says. And here we go. He asks me what my starting price is, I tell him 10 yuan each, and he objects. He asks me how many I want (five), and then punches a number into his little calculator to show me. It was something like 180 for all five, so I said absolutely not. He punches in a price a little bit lower, and I remind him that the other shopkeeper started at 10. A pause, and then the second buyer strategy: walk away.

So Stephanie and I start walking until we here him say "Okay, okay come back!" We comply, and start again. He must have gone down to 80 yuan or something and then said it was his final price. I said that 50 for 5 was my final price, so we walk away again. And again, he calls us back. We go through the motions and he goes down to 60. "Final price," he says. "No lower." I reiterate my 50, and we walk away a third time. As we were walking I quietly counted aloud to Stephanie: "Five...four...three...two..."

"Okay! Okay!" the guy yells. "Fifty!" Finally. So we walk back, I pick out the ones I want, get ready to get my money out, and then he says, "Sixty." Stephanie and I just look at each other, amused and a little bit confused. "No! You said 50," I tell him, and he offers 60 again. I noticed he had some pretty big fish too, so I decided to offer him 55 for four little ones and one big one. He refused, I offered again, and then at last we had a deal. All that for some little wiggle fish.

I paid up and another guy working at the shop placed the fish into the bag I got from an official Olympic store downstairs. Being the perceptive salesman he was, he grabbed a tray stashed on a hidden shelf and quietly proceeded to offer me some fake Olympic gear in the form of Fuwa (the official Olympic mascots) keychains. While the production of fake goods is rampant in China, the government promised to crack down on counterfeiting as a part of Beijing's bid for the 2008 Games. Thus it's pretty difficult to find fake (read: much cheaper) Olympic gear because China has been pretty serious about "upholding the integrity" of the Olympic logo. Turns out, though, you just need to know where to look and who to bargain with.


SO CUTE.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Update

I was going to start out by saying that not too much has been going on lately, but then I thought about it and decided that was a lie. I think I've just gotten used to lots of activities all the time, so it just seems like not much has been going on because things are at the normal level of perpetually busy.

Last time I gave a big update, I ended with Bon Jovi and the German beer garden, which was Friday night. Saturday was a free day, so a group of us ventured out to the Summer Palace (its concubine-laden history can be found at Wiki's Summer Palace page), which was absolutely gorgeous. I (along with many others) made the mistake of wearing flip flops, not realizing that getting around the gardens required a good bit of hiking/stair climbing. Nonetheless, it was great, and it was related to concubines, which automatically makes any location approximately 10 times better. Nothing too exciting happened there, save for some local guys asking to take pictures with girls in our group, which tends to happen a lot but is pretty much funny and awkward every time. Oh, and also, we saw some kid pee on the ground because people in China generally don't use diapers to potty train their kids. The little ones just wear pants with slits in the butt. So that was pretty funny.






On Sunday, we took a group trip to one of the hutongs in Beijing, which are these sort of old-style neighborhoods with narrow streets (generally too narrow for cars) and courtyard setups where families live in little compounds and share a common outdoor space. It actually reminded me a bit of the courtyards in between buildings in the French Quarter, but the houses in the hutongs are one-story, and some are in pretty rough condition. We traveled to one of the hutong houses in a rickshaw caravan, and one of the residents allowed us to come inside her house and check it out. She talked to us about her house, hutong life, and her family in Mandarin while our tour guide guy translated for us.




Two of the many family pets. The birds kept saying "ni hao" while we hung around in the courtyard.


Turtle tank inside the living room facing the courtyard

After the hutong tour, we went to Prince Gong's Mansion, which was near the lake (Houhai) where we had our banquet dinner. A bit of history, for anyone interested: Prince Gong's Mansion

While there, we got to see a short but apparently traditional Chinese opera inside the on-site opera house, which played out more like a talent act or magic show. We also had a tea demonstration in the government-run teahouse, where I may or may not have bought a tiny teapot with a dragon on the outside that changes colors when you pour hot water into it. The photo in the last post is from the teahouse.




After the Prince Gong excitement, we had lunch at a place that served Peking duck, which originated in Beijing (Peking = older Western name, replaced by "Beijing" after the formation of the PRC in 1949 and the introduction of pinyin). We came back to the hotel on the crowded subway and ate dinner later in one of the hotel's restaurants, which ended up being an ordeal despite the fact that one guy in our group speaks Mandarin. The main problem was that one person wanted cheese on their sandwich, and our native speaker can never remember how to say "cheese" in Mandarin because cheese just isn't used in Chinese dishes. Eventually we got it figured out, and the kid ended up with some nice Kraft American Singles on his sandwich. Three of us got burgers whose beef patties tasted like meatballs, and two got personal pizzas that smelled faintly of Sharpie markers.

Monday meant back to class, where we had two guest speakers - one was Limin Liang, a woman who used to work for CCTV (the state-run TV network) and is now working on her PhD at Northwestern, and the other was Li Xiaoping, who currently works for CCTV and is the woman behind the network's first-ever investigative news program.

That night after class, a few of us went to dinner (I keep talking about food, don't I?) at this place near the hotel called Lush. We were greeted by an American guy named Josh (I think) who apparently runs the place, so he talked us up while we waited for a table big enough for seven and cashed in on the bucket special - a bucket of 7 Tsingtao beers for 70 yuan. The whole time we were there, Top Gun was playing with Chinese subtitles on a big projection screen, which was hilarious. I got a burger that was way better than the meatball concoction I had in the hotel the night before, and the ketchup for our french fries didn't taste like pure sugar, so that was a plus. After dinner, I called it a night.

It rained today for the second time since I've been here, so everything seemed a bit more lazy than usual. Oh, and somehow I was just reminded that yesterday I accidentally threw my Tsinghua meal card away with my tray at lunch, so I had to mooch off of someone today. It was pretty smooth. But I got a new one this afternoon. My roomie and I are now off to dinner at Subway and then Starbucks to caffeinate in preparation for our homework.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Photo of the Day

Here's my favorite photo from our excursion today:


It was taken in the Tea House of Prince Gong's Mansion in Houhai, Beijing.